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Travel Tips: Discover Copenhagen in 2024 - Part I

  • Writer: Paula van Unen
    Paula van Unen
  • Apr 21, 2024
  • 14 min read

Updated: May 2

By Dirk Vandereyken & Paula van Unen


When you're a gourmet, an intrepid explorer, or a globetrotter in search of a destination that stands out, Copenhagen is an essential stop on your itinerary. This Danish gem is rightly hailed as one of the most enchanting cities on the globe, and the fact that Danes are recognized as the second happiest people on earth is no mere coincidence. Denmark's capital serves up a captivating blend of historical allure and cutting-edge modernity, from lush green spaces to pioneering gastronomic delights and avant-garde design – all underscored by a commitment to sustainability that is rare to find. After roughly three years, it was time to cast a fresh gaze upon this mesmerizing place, and we are eager to share our visit with you!



Delving into Copenhagen's Storied Past


Copenhagen's roots stretch back to the 10th century when it was just a humble fishing village. The name 'Havn,' Danish for 'harbor,' hints at its original role. After 250 years of Viking rule, a regal era ensued, with Bishop Absalon formally establishing the city as we know it in 1167. Copenhagen then flourished into a key trading hub, thanks in part to its strategic position on the Baltic Sea. By the early 15th century, it had risen to become the capital of the kingdom, a status further enhanced by stunning architectural additions during the Renaissance, including Frederiksstaden and numerous Baroque buildings.



Pioneering in Transportation


In Copenhagen, the bicycle reigns supreme. With five times as many bikes as cars and an active cycling culture, supported by extensive bike paths and highly bike-friendly legislation, it's the premier city for exploring on two wheels. It's no surprise that 62% of residents cycle to their work or studies.


The public transportation network, including buses, metros, and trains, is nearly as impressive, serving both the suburbs and surrounding areas. With the introduction of the M3 Cityringen in 2020, traveling within the city became even easier.


This year, the Copenhagen Card celebrates its 40th anniversary. With this now digital, extremely handy card, you gain unlimited access to public transport and a plethora of top attractions—an ideal option for families, as two children can now even come along for free. Save money and time with a COPENHAGEN CARD: free entrance to top attractions, bring two children for free, enjoy free, unlimited transportation, and benefit from its 100% digital format—simply download the app and purchase your card.



Sightseeing


Without a doubt: Copenhagen is a veritable treasure chest filled with cultural and historical gems. As we prepare for our extensive special in May, we're lifting the veil on a few must-see attractions you won't want to miss.


Christiania: A Unique Free Town


Within the dynamic environment of Copenhagen lies Christiania, a unique autonomous district that started as a squatted military base in 1971. Despite controversies and challenges, such as conflicts with authorities, some drug-related incidents, and the invasion of motorcycle gangs in the '80s, Christiania has grown into a major tourist attraction with a rich artistic scene, including graffiti, food stalls, and self-built structures.


 

With its yearly draw of half a million visitors, this area serves as a captivating alternative to the typical cityscape. Indeed, a considerable number of these visitors initially flocked to Pusher Street – a small lane where marijuana and related soft drugs were openly sold as though not illegal in Denmark. However, recent developments have seen even the local residents growing weary of this, with a shift towards encouraging visitors to engage more with the multitude of events and performances rather than seeking out a joint.


 

Copenhagen Contemporary: Art in an Industrial Ambiance


Nestled on the island of Refshaleøen, amidst notable neighbors such as Reffen and Alchemist (one of the world's leading restaurants), sits the stunning Copenhagen Contemporary museum. Housed in a repurposed industrial space, this museum showcases remarkable art and large-scale modern installations. A recent visit left us awestruck by an exhibition focused on space and the cosmos, managing to rival even the displays of the local planetarium. The museum also prides itself on being fully wheelchair accessible, ensuring an inclusive experience for all art enthusiasts. For those feeling peckish or thirsty yet reluctant to wander through the abundant food stalls of Reffen, the adjacent Connie-Connie offers a convenient stop.



Hottub Copenhagen: Relaxation with a View


Situated in the hip area of Refshalevej, Hottub Copenhagen invites you to bask in one of its five hot tubs on the dock, providing a stunning city and water vista. Despite the chilly moments of changing, immersing yourself in the 40°C (104°F) warm water promises a splendid relaxation experience.



Hot tub rental here is charged per unit, not per individual, which means the cost remains consistent whether you're planning a romantic sunset evening with champagne for two or opting for a fun gathering of five. Additionally, an ice-cold tub is available for those seeking to cool down after the initial dip or for anyone coming out of one of the open saunas. We found this experience to be truly outstanding, even in December amidst a light rain!


More info: www.hottubcph.com


Guinness World Records Museum: A Playful Dive in Amazing Feats


The Guinness World Records Museum in Copenhagen offers an interactive and educational dive into the world of human achievements and oddities. Each display comes with informative text loaded with intriguing facts, securing its place among similar attractions in other cities and the likes of Ripley’s Believe It or Not! From record-setting sprinters to the most pierced man on the planet; the Guinness World Records Museum is a fascinating venue perfectly suitable for a family outing, even though it could use a bit of refurbishment here and there.


 

The Little Mermaid: An Icon by the Waterfront


Not far from the city center, on the Langelinie promenade, you will find the famous statue of The Little Mermaid, naturally inspired by the fairy tale of Hans Christian Andersen – perhaps one of the most famous Danes ever. This bronze statue, created by Copenhagen native Edvard Eriksen, is one of the most photographed attractions in the city, despite its modest size.

 

The National Museum of Denmark in Copenhagen: A Journey Through Time


The National Museum of Denmark in Copenhagen is a veritable treasure trove of history, as detailed in the content from their website. The exhibitions span virtually all continents and range from prehistoric times to ancient Egypt, the Viking Age, and beyond. Among the museum's captivating attractions are the incredible mummies and sarcophagi, though their display raises discussion points about the intentions of ancient Egyptian rulers in contrast to their final resting places being in museums rather than in their hieroglyph-protected tombs—a topic for another detailed exploration.


For those interested in a deeper dive into Denmark's extensive historical narrative, from its Gold Horns, Vikings, and perhaps Copenhagen's best smørrebrød to an engaging exploration of Danish wars, resistance during the occupation, music history, or even maritime heritage, the National Museum holds the key to unlocking these stories and more. Discover life in Denmark during different epochs, from the Viking ring fortresses now recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site to the opulent Eremitageslottet, revealing the royal affair with hunting and intimate dining experiences.


 

Planetarium: Astronomical Wonders


For those who prefer a 'cosmic' experience, a visit to the Planetarium in Copenhagen is a great option. Here, we find interactive exhibits and films that delve into the mysteries of the universe. The ability to zoom in on how the universe likely began, to see the basic elements life as we know it consists of, and to have enough time to wander before entering the large dome hall to view an impressive (though unfortunately almost entirely digital) film on the exploration of our solar system, makes recommending a visit a no-brainer.


More info: www.planetarium.dk

 

Tivoli Gardens: More than an Amusement Park



Tivoli isn't just one of the world's oldest amusement parks; it also serves as a cultural epicenter where visitors can bask in the beauty of exquisite gardens, enjoy live performances, and taste culinary masterpieces. The park boasts an abundance of attractions, including a classic wooden roller coaster, along with a plethora of shops and stalls to keep everyone entertained. However, one of the most distinctive offerings of Tivoli Gardens nowadays is the hosting of residencies by top (inter)national chefs within the Japanese Pagoda. During our visit, we narrowly missed the chance to dine while the renowned Danish Michelin-starred chef Nicolai Tram from Southern Sweden's Knystaforsen was cooking. Nevertheless, the wide array of dining options available across the more than 60 other restaurants and food stands meant that leaving hungry was never an option. More on this in our chapter about restaurants!





Additionally, the charming Nimb Hotel comes highly recommended for anyone looking to spend some time here as well as tourists just visiting Copenhagen.


 

Stay


Copenhagen is home to numerous fantastic hotels that we'll delve into extensively in our next article. A sneak peek: we'll be taking a closer look at the NH Collection with its new rooftop bar and the charming Nimb Hotel, among others!


Restaurants


The Danish capital is celebrated for its rich culture, warm hospitality, and fascinating attractions, but the abundance of exemplary dining venues is one of its biggest attractions. We've previously highlighted culinary hotspots such as Krogs Fiskebar, Blue Taco, Kadeau, and Selma, but this time, our focus shifts to a few new gems.

 

Connie-Connie 


This accessible design café is the outcome of a collaboration between various creative minds, including Copenhagen Contemporary and 25 artists who crafted the furniture pieces for Connie-Connie from scrap wood for the occasion. Connie-Connie not only won the Wallpaper award for Best Café Chairs in 2022, but the café also offers a simple yet flavorful bistro menu along with a select array of fine natural wines. However, a visit to Connie-Connie isn't complete without also exploring the adjacent Copenhagen Contemporary, the cutting-edge Alchemist, or the food stalls at Reffen.


 

Fru Nimb 


One of the outstanding restaurants accessible exclusively through Nimb Hotel and Tivoli Gardens is Fru Nimb, where we enjoy classic Danish 'open sandwiches' with a culinary twist for lunch (the dinner menu varies). We sampled a delightfully flavorful marinated herring accompanied by a surprisingly light curry cream, egg, crisp watercress, mildly sour and briny caper berries, and fresh apple, which with its crisp sweetness added more balance to the dish, served alongside a homemade pear schnapps proudly crafted by our maître. For our plaice, a delightful radish schnapps was provided. Following that, we had a chicken salad featuring exceptionally tender, flavorful poultry with sautéed mushrooms and celery, crowned with cornichons and rosemary bacon. The mushrooms and celery brought an earthy and subtly spicy note that melded well with the chicken’s tenderness, while the small pickles offered a fresh, tart contrast and the rosemary bacon added a smoky, aromatic dimension.


We concluded with a classic beef tartare accompanied by pickles, capers, onions, horseradish, and raw egg yolk, a dish that contends with the award-winning tartare from Café Theatre back in our own Ghent. The meal was perfectly rounded off with another schnapps, this time uniquely flavored with coffee beans and vanilla. Fantastic!



Gaijin


Following our interview some time ago with chef Eric Vildgaard of Jordnaer, it was time to visit his former sous chef, Edward Lee, at his own establishment, Gaijin. This marvelous dining temple embodies a fusion of Japanese cuisine with international influences, showcasing Lee’s expertise in filleting and preparing dishes at the bar—a must-experience for any food enthusiast. The amiable chef shared extensively about his experiences and even, at the request of two guests, proudly displayed his collection of knives, passionately explaining the specific uses for each one and their origins, including the knife he kept, a gift from Vildgaard himself.


In our more detailed article, we delve into various exceptional wine and sake pairings, but let's start by mentioning one of the finest opening dishes we've encountered in 2023: homemade buckwheat noodles with mushrooms and white truffle from Croatia. These noodles boast a nutty flavor and are more robust than traditional wheat noodles, providing a much firmer texture to the dish. The mushrooms continue this earthy theme and add a substantial amount of umami, while the lavish addition of sumptuous white truffle elevates the aromatic profile with their garlicky and musky notes to an even higher level. It's a complex yet remarkably harmonious dish!


Our second course features three pieces of sashimi of the highest quality: trout, langoustine, and a tuna loin with an exceptional fat structure that remains memorable long after the meal.


For the third course, we were treated to sweet, slightly spicy Japanese turnips with a crispy, tender texture and a broth where traditional dashi is replaced with squid, adding a maritime, lightly salty flavor to the sweet turnips; a very successful fusion of land and sea!


For our fourth course, Edward Lee sourced his duck from outside Denmark because Danish ducks usually don't receive enough grains for the exquisite dish he intends to serve. The duck is served yakitori-style on four skewers, including one with duck giblets (a type of foie, naturally), one with duck leg à l'orange, and one with minced duck. The various textures and finishes (including spices, ginger, and sesame seeds) provide a lot of variety, yet there's a clear cohesive thread running through the dish: delicious. Almost as tasty is the side dish of crispy vegetables excellently unified by a dressing of smoked oil. Fantastic!


Edward follows with a delightful plate of pumpkin with miso and nori, pumpkin seeds, and a special type of rice (we believe it to be koshihikari, a high-quality rice variety that is sweeter than its traditional counterpart) topped with ikura (trout roe). As we take the first bite of this refined dish, we are immediately struck by the rich umami flavor of the miso, which beautifully melds with the soft, perfectly cooked pumpkin that retains a slight bite but is simultaneously creamy. The addition of nori adds a subtle saltiness that enhances the earthiness of the pumpkin, elevating the dish with a deep oceanic flavor. The lightly toasted pumpkin seeds add a crunchy texture that deliciously contrasts with the softness of the pumpkin, while the rice absorbs the rich flavors of the miso and nori, making every grain simply more delicious. The ruby-red, translucent eggs burst with each bite, releasing a fresh, briny liquid that intensifies the umami character of the miso and adds an extra touch of freshness.


We conclude in absolute beauty with a dessert of Japanese mandarin, believed to be either satsuma or unshiu. Historically, these were less consumed as people thought seedless unshiu could cause infertility, but this changed during the modernization of the Meiji period, thankfully, because this citrus fruit is simply delicious... and with the right amount of alcohol incorporated into the dessert, it's truly a highlight.


More info: www.gaijincph.dk


Kødbyens Fiskebar


Located in the former meatpacking district, in what used to be a slaughterhouse, Kødbyens Fiskebar's heritage is still evident in its trendy, industrial decor. Chef Jamie Lee, who also worked under the tutelage of culinary celebrities like Gordon Ramsay, and co-owner Anders Selmer, once a sommelier at Noma, long considered the best restaurant in the world, create a positively explosive combination. With a great staff to boot, Kødbyens Fiskebar has quickly become one of our favorite spots in Copenhagen. Indeed, it's hard to imagine not visiting one of the city's best fish restaurants whenever we have the chance.


First and foremost, praise is due for the fabulous potato bread with seaweed butter served here: baked twice daily, sumptuous, creamy yet with sufficient texture, and simply perfect for dipping in the leftover sauces from the dishes!



For our first course, we're presented with two types of oysters, among which the Gillardeau #4 was our favorite: a paragon of quality with firm, smooth flesh and a buttery texture. The delicate mineral flavor immediately evokes the sea, while the complex balance of sweet and salty with subtle hints of nuts makes it a real standout. However, make no mistake: the other oysters here are also not to be missed. Additionally, high marks for the accompanying sauce.


On another plate, we discover two lobster rolls; soft, airy milk bread buns filled with delicate, juicy pieces of lightly cooked lobster. The addition of crisp celery introduces more contrast to the otherwise quite tender textures, while the pickles provide a fresh, tangy touch that beautifully balances everything out. Paired with two fantastic cheese tarts, it's clear we've started our meal in grand style.

 

Next, we are treated to a symphony of vastly different textures: a dish featuring brill from the western coast, served with smoked mussel cream, sea lettuce, rye, and charred onion. The brill itself is inherently fine and tender, but the way it's served here further accentuates its qualities, while the smoky deep-sea flavor of the mussel cream beautifully complements everything. It's also nice to see sea lettuce included (often an underrated ingredient); a type of seaweed that adds a salty freshness to the dish. The rye contributes an additional crispy texture, while the charred onion rounds out the dish with a lightly bitter, sweet dimension.


Even more modern is our pike-perch served with smoked oyster cream, crispy radish, and nasturtium, complete with a sauce of white currant and umeboshi. The focus here is on the interplay of all the existing flavors, including the umami from the smoked oyster cream, the peppery notes from the nasturtium, and the sweet-sour finish of the sauce. It's exciting and we certainly don't miss the crunch in this dish!


Moving away from the typical scallop carpaccio or similar dishes, we have slices of hamachi from Sashimi Royal in Handstholm, served with refreshing cucumber, mildly spicy horseradish, and oyster leaves. The latter ingredient elevates the dish to a higher level, as the saline flavor perfectly complements the hamachi. A cleverly crafted dish.


After an incredibly tasty open ravioli, we conclude with a showstopper: a sublime dish that combines the smokiness of barbecue-marshmallow ice cream with the salty undertone of seaweed. As if that contrast wasn't enough, it's also topped with caviar. The result is a true explosion of flavors, and this dessert alone is reason enough for us to consider a return visit! In our Copenhagen Special, you can also expect a detailed review of all the wines served!


 

Mikkeller & Friends – Ramen to Biiru Vesterbro 




Mikkeller, primarily known for its brewery, also operates several restaurants in Copenhagen, including various ramen spots. Recently, ramen has become a huge hit in Copenhagen, especially among the youth looking for a quick Japanese bite. We visited Ramen to Biiru Vesterbro and found a very approachable, cozy restaurant where you can also find less traditional ramen options. Instead of just opting for the spicy ramen, we went for the spiciest option, which quickly brought tears to our eyes. For those who prefer a healthier dish than one based on rich chicken broth and fatty pork belly, there are also tasty vegetarian or vegan versions available. Paired with Mikkeller's delicious beers, it's a must-visit for fans of Japanese comfort food.



Nimb Bar


Located in the Nimb Hotel, Bar Nimb offers a luxurious 'afternoon tea' experience in a stunning setting.


We didn't start with tea but with a delightful Ruinart champagne. Additionally, a sparkling white tea blend of jasmine and Darjeeling offers an excellent non-alcoholic alternative.



Our first course consists of a three-tiered serving with an assortment of pastries and stuffed sandwiches. The choux au craquelin with smoked salmon fillet, capers, and lemon jelly are crispy little pastries filled with salmon, complemented by the sharp taste of capers and the refreshment of lemon jelly. They strike a nice balance between fresh, subtle flavors and rich, savory notes—quite delightful!


The "Waldorf vol-au-vent with apple, celery, and walnut cream" is a creative take on a classic, where juicy celery, crunchy apple, and rich walnut cream add delicious savory and sweet notes as well as playful textures to the dish. With the pan-puri, we move towards Indian street food. The crispy shell is filled with soft egg cream and crispy, hand-peeled shrimp—delicious! A hint of dill adds the necessary freshness.


While our afternoon tea is not very traditional, it wouldn't be complete without a traditional cucumber sandwich with mint. The excellent soft bread makes for the lightest dish of this first course. Finally, there is also an innovative croquette with Brændende Kærlighed, a traditional Danish dish typically based on mashed potatoes, usually served with fried bacon cubes and onions cooked in bacon fat. Our version includes cod and a beet jelly that provides a necessary sweet earthy touch. Tasty!


While our first course mainly consists of savory dishes, our second course predictably leans sweeter. The blackcurrant macarons could easily compete with the best from Monaco, while the cake with airy cherry mousse and sweet applesauce has gained much more depth with the addition of cocoa. The mazarin marzipan cake with berries and lemon mousse is more of a Swedish dish, where the nutty almond flavor, moist texture, and fresh berries create a standout dish.


Chocolate features prominently with a dish consisting of chocolate filled with rum caramel and a typical Danish dessert: a flødebolle (a type of cream puff) with a solid marzipan base and an incredibly airy, delicate, resilient filling rich with pure vanilla. It's enveloped in a thick layer of dark chocolate, which introduces a slight bitterness that excellently balances the sweetness of the vanilla foam and marzipan.


Take it from us: you can hardly find a better afternoon tea experience anywhere else in Copenhagen! In our Copenhagen Special, we will also delve deeper into the champagne and accompanying teas!


 

Pictures: Paula van Unen & wallpapers

Text: Dirk Vandereyken

 
 
 

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